Wednesday, May 2, 2012

Climbing Table Mountain for International Workers' Day


Yesterday we celebrated International Workers Day by climbing (literally) to the top of Table Mountain.  We met a guard at the entrance to the hiking trail who insisted that we purchase more water from him at a $3.50/L…turns out he was right.  The climb was easy for the first half hour…then just as we started to get tired…it became a cliff…literally stairs where I had to put my knee up to my chest and use my hands to climb.  It was a tough climb but well worth it, especially once we got to the top!  A view of all of Cape Town.  I would share some pictures but I pay per MB for the Internet here and anything but email is pretty costly.
Other things to note are my poor sense of direction here. I normally pride myself on being able to master a map in a couple of days and always know where I am…so far, I have a general sense but I probably couldn’t tell you which way is North unless the sun is out…especially when we go into the townships.
Also, I’d like to note how remarkably few stray dogs I’ve seen.  Though unneutered, many are kept in fenced in yards and are not roaming the street…I wonder if that makes the difference from the hoards of stray dogs I’ve noted in Latin American countries.  Mama Ivy, our tour guide, said that many people keep dogs as pets.  I’ve also heard rumors that they might need to eat dogs and cats but that’s yet unconfirmed.  Among other things, they keep in their yards—cows, goats, and sheep. 

First Day of Placement and more Orientation


Today was my first day of placement! I got to see where the other volunteers are working then sit in on a CCS office meeting.  Riding in the van with T (the placement coordinator), during the staff meeting, and in a one-on-one meeting with Luann (the director), I started to get an idea of what CCS South Africa already does and wants to do with regards to evaluation.
I continue to be inspired by CCS’s mission and vision.  It is empowering to listen to how they talk about their partnerships as true partnerships, how respect for the volunteer and the community are equivalent, and how they are continually evaluating themselves to ensure that they are working with and supporting sustainable organizations that already have projects.  My first task as an intern is to read about CCS, their own evaluation, and other evaluation about international volunteers
The staff recognizes that international volunteerism is under a critical eye here in South Africa at the moment as, after a history of colonial and paternalistic relationships with other countries, people wonder what the motivations of volunteers are and question the impact.  I will get to explore this a lot more this summer for my placement since CCS shares an interest in understanding where the organization falls in the spectrum of responsible and ethical volunteering.
My own goals for the summer include those of learning about existing international volunteer programs, building evaluation skills, interacting with other volunteers to see how their attitudes change through shorter versus longer term placements, and discovering how the staff at CCS view having a volunteer coming in.  Other things I’d like to do are to sit in on a social work or development class or two at the University of Cape Town, visit the Projects Abroad or other international volunteer agency offices, and attend a session of Parliament.
Going back to the past few days…
Monday was a township tour where I started to learn about what Cape Town is like for a majority of the local population.  The townships are areas outside of the city with anything from humble houses to makeshift shacks where most of the coloured and black populations were forced to live during Apartheid and still live today. The tour started with a PowerPoint lecture by Mama Ivy, a Xhosa (pronounced with a click: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4RdHNJIh9s) woman who grew up in the Cape Town townships and was here to share her culture and traditions.  She explained how people go to traditional healers and doctors and still perform rituals, despite having also picked up Christianity. 
When we started to drive around through the townships, I felt uncomfortable being in a group of tourists going to gawk at people and the way they live.  For some reason, though, I found myself wanting to take pictures to share with people I know so they, too, can get an idea of just how some people live.  Speaking of the way they live, though, I was actually not surprised by the “shanties.”  If anything, I was surprised by the quality of the outside appearance—many having glass windows and being made of cement with nice looking roofs and murals.  It was interesting how the buildings, nicer houses, and shacks were intermixed.  Apparently, the nicer homes are government provided housing where they cleared the shacks and replaced them with small, standard, cement buildings that they sell to the residents over the course of several years.  The residents then make additions and make the homes their own.  It’s amazing what a little jumpstart can do to someone’s housing situation.  During the tour, we also learned a lot about the history of the hostels made for migrant workers and how they’ve since been converted into single family rooms.  Coca-Cola and other companies still have hostels in the townships for their workers and families to live in.
During the tour, we visited a college that had a large display detailing the history of apartheid and what has happened since.  We saw the sites of a couple of iconic murders including those of the Gugulethu Seven (http://www.capetown.dj/Regions/CapeFlats/Gugulethu/GugulethuSeven.html) and three boys killed in Athleton in the “Trojan Horse” massacre (http://www.hrmc.org.za/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=63&Itemid=30).  After the Gugulethu Seven were shot, gangs feared white people and a Fulbright Scholar and political activist, Amy Beihl, was killed when accompanying some friends home to the townships. (http://www.amybiehl.co.za/?page_id=6)
Despite having access to people who have experienced Apartheid first hand and their stated willingness to share details about the history of their country with us, when I asked questions about South Africa’s involvement in WWII and about the government structure during Apartheid, I was met with resistance or silence.  Fortunately, I have 12 weeks to piece together a long, detailed history.   I will use the many books lying around Home Base, discussions with staff and other volunteers, and we’ve already started devouring the CCS DVD collection.  I look forward to drawing comparisons to what I already know about Guatemala’s similarly rocky history and continued peace-building process. (Check these out: http://www.skinthemovie.net/site/ should have read this before I left but nothing will quite pique interest in history like seeing the outcomes of it first hand...http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_Africa).
The past few days, I’ve been wondering to what extent Apartheid is really over and, coincidentally, that’s a hot topic currently in South Africa since Friday was Freedom Day (commemorating the day in 1993 that ALL people in South Africa were allowed to vote in the first truly democratic election and Nelson Mandela was elected as leader of a new, FREE South Africa).  In Monday’s newspaper, there were two relevant articles.  One by Desmond Tutu that reflected on the past 18 years (http://www.timeslive.co.za/local/2012/04/29/each-one-of-us-must-help-the-miracle-happen) and another by Jeremy Cronin, a leader in the Communist Party and member of Parliament, that discussed how maybe the end of Apartheid meant the end of racial inequality but it was quickly replaced by an increasingly capitalistic system that led to severe economic inequality (http://www.timeslive.co.za/local/2012/04/29/how-history-haunts-us).  We learned today that South Africa was rated last year with the highest Gini coefficient, which represents the wealth disparities between the richest and poorest in the country, beating out Brazil. (http://www.timeslive.co.za/thetimes/2012/01/23/thousands-of-tax-cheats-in-sars-sights) Because of the significant wealth disparities, blacks largely remain in the townships and fear white people because they are so unfamiliar.  One thing that I appreciate CCS is how they help to break down racial fear by sending volunteers into the townships where many children would otherwise be fearful of touching a white person.
That was a lot of detail so I’m just going to end this post with a quote from the article by Desmond Tutu and create another post to talk about how the group and I spent May Day (International Workers Day).
“It starts within us, with the recognition that we don not live in a vacuum.  Each one of us is a constituent part of a greater organism; our community, our country, our continent, our world. […] If we are to improve our performance, we must improve our teamwork, which begins with our own understanding that we are members of one team.  Our hopes and aspirations are tied up not just in ourselves and our own material wellbeing, but also in each other.  For the organism to prosper requires healthy cells.” Desmond Tutu

Sunday, April 29, 2012

Orientation and Cape Town City Tour


Today was the first day of CCS orientation!  So far there are 6 of us in the incoming group because one new member got caught up at the airport and won’t be in until later tonight.  There are three volunteers who have been here for different lengths of time and who will be staying for another few weeks.
We started orientation with a group meeting with new volunteers this morning.  We got to meet Luann, the CCS South Africa Director, who I will be working with for the next 12 weeks.  I was happy to hear how she spoke of program evaluation and how serious CCS South Africa takes the impact of their volunteers.  After talking to several volunteers yesterday who seem to spend a lot of time going out at night and complaining about CCS policies, it was refreshing to hear about the professional side of the program.
We also set expectations and goals for our placements, what “homebase” (the volunteer house) might be like, what we hope to do in the city, and what we can do to make the most of our experience.  I like this exercise and have used in with Sa Nima before…I was kind of surprised yesterday when I heard the previous volunteers complaining about it since I think it’s really important to have goals at first that you can reflect on and revise later in the program. 
After having a “braai” (barbeque) for lunch, we headed out on a City Tour of Cape Town with James, the CCS Driver and excellent Tour Guide.  We got to see District 6, which was an area that was bulldozed during apartheid, forcing many people out of the city (more to come on that after we visit the District 6 museum).  We also saw the downtown area and the places to hang out and shop for souvenirs.  Will have to go back and check that out in free time later. I really need an African purse or two and my teeth are chattering in anticipation of being able to pick out some cool black and white dangly earrings (turns out they're "recycled" cow bone)!
James drove us to the top of Signal Hill, which is where they would fire cannons when a ship was in distress and now, they fire every day at noon.  We saw some guinea fowl up there, which I thought were female peacocks at first.   
Coming down the mountain, we got to walk on the beach in a town that looked like Laguna Beach with some major fancy hotels and resorts then headed toward the mall.  This was the biggest mall I’ve ever been in with all of the fancy stores you’d see in a big city.  We found a nice amphitheathre outside with a flamethrower and a band getting ready to play then headed over to Nobel Square (a tribute to the 4 Nobel Laureates from South Africa) and a giant statue made of recycled Coca-Cola crates.
After a long day of touring we had a good dinner at home base and started chattering about what to do in our short times here!  Ideas floating around are the Cape to Addo tour where you can pick and choose your adventures on a 3 day tour, a Cape Point tour that stops off in Simon’s Town to see the penguins (did you know that the Cape of Good Hope is NOT the Southernmost point in Africa?), a hike up Table Mountain if it’s nice on Tuesday, or just checking out the local music scene on Long Street.